It was late October, early in the afternoon. As we were leaving the Old Watermill, my new friend — the miller — turned to me with a mix of pride and confidentiality:
“You must also visit the Mycenaean tholos tombs. Just up there, in Peristeria…
You’ll be impressed — they are magnificent!”
That morning his wife had treated us to a breakfast that still lingered in memory: golden fried eggs and a fragrant spinach-and-cheese pie, both made with her own delicate handmade phyllo and flour milled right there on the spot. Later, our coffee was paired with her upside-down apple pie — its taste and aroma instantly taking me back to my mother’s kitchen.
With such fuel, we were more than ready for a drive into the highlands of Kyparissia — an archaeological pilgrimage, a journey into time.
We descended to the main Kyparissia–Pyrgos road and headed north toward Kalo Nero. About ten minutes later we turned right, into the small village of Raches, nestled beside the site of the Mycenaean tholos tombs.
Mycenaean Tholos Tombs
The landscape was lush and green, filled, of course, with olive trees and small houses with tiled roofs.
Following the signs through the village of Raches, within five minutes we had reached the archaeological site of the Mycenaean tholos tombs.
Silence reigned — an almost sacred stillness, infused with a sense of magic that seemed to flood the body with emotion.
The only sound was the gentle rustling of the pines, and, in the distance, the faint chirping of birds hidden among the olive trees, their branches heavy with fruit.
Olive harvest season had already begun. From the hills around us, we could just make out the soft hum of small machines shaking the trees, releasing their olives from the highest branches.
The story
The moment the guard saw us, he sprang out of the small booth to welcome us!
After all, we were the only visitors, and he seemed eager both to share the history of the site and to break the monotony of his solitude.
We chatted for a long while — about everyday life, the village, and a little bit of everything…
He kindly offered to accompany us and explain the ancient tombs in detail.
So, I’ll pass on his words almost verbatim, as he spoke with the air of a seasoned guide…
“The hill of Peristeria has been called ‘the Mycenae of Western Peloponnese,’” he said proudly.
“It is one of the most important centers of Early Mycenaean civilization in Greece.
The site includes a significant settlement and three tholos tombs, one of which dates back to the 16th century BCE.
It is the largest tomb ever excavated in Messinia. Tholos tombs appeared between 1600–1400 BCE and are a hallmark of Mycenaean architecture.
The largest and most important tomb is located roughly at the center of the site, and inside it many gold artifacts and jewelry were discovered.
In the third, smaller tomb, most of the bronze, silver, and gold objects were found.
The tholos tombs of Messinia were probably intended for family burials.”
The Tholos Tomb
After he explained the history, he let us explore the site on our own.
I wandered around, taking photos, and before entering the large tholos tomb, I sat on a stone to take it all in.
Just think, the ground we walk on. The stones and objects we touch, have been here for three and a half thousand years…
I stood up and began walking toward the great tholos tomb…
A monument rising from the earth like a colossal breast.
I stepped forward, and a sense of awe — a shiver — ran through my body.
I walked lightly, carefully, not wanting to disturb the dead…
As I entered, a stifled “Ooooh” escaped me.
I froze in place, astonished by the sheer size, the beauty, the architecture of it all!
I began counting the small stones it was built from, marveling at how they had managed to construct it all back then…
Those few minutes I stood still transported me far back in time.
A whole world unfolded before my eyes, as if I were living in that era…
A hand gently touched my shoulder, and a voice brought me back to the present.
“Come on, what are you doing? Time to leave — you’ve been in there half an hour.”
I stepped out slowly, almost in reverse, my eyes fixed on the depths of the tomb…
It was as if I couldn’t bear to turn my back on the dead of that time, on the beauty of the tholos tomb.
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Watch the video we made for you to get a more complete view of this wonderful monument, still unknown to many.
The Return
I rarely feel this way only a few times have I been so captivated by something so “simple” as a monument. Who knows what strange powers sometimes take hold of our minds…
This wonderful place, steeped in history, is a must-visit if your travels bring you to Kyparissia. After enjoying a coffee with the miller, follow the secret path into ancient life…
If you’re lucky — usually during a full moon — the site opens at night, hosting musical events organized by the municipality. It’s truly a magical experience not to be missed if you’re nearby.
While you’re here, make sure to visit the gorge with its stalactites — to fully soak in the beauty of nature!
The archaeological finds from the three tholos tombs are remarkable. Jewelry and everyday objects, all of which you can admire at the Archaeological Museum of Chora.
There, you can also visit the Palace of Nestor and the tholos tomb of Ano Englianos.
And of course, from here, you’re just a short journey away from what’s often called the Parthenon of the Peloponnese.
Travel to Sanctuary of Epikourios Apollo, whose imposing form is nothing short of mesmerizing.
And naturally, don’t miss the experience of Neda, the nymph: its vast gorge and the dreamy waterfalls of the Neda River offer a type of nature that’s hard to find anywhere else.
Text and photos by GiorgioGrigor
