Vamvakou is truly a reason to take a trip to the mysterious Parnonas.
A village revelation in the midst of lush green nature that you cannot take your eyes off.
After our first impressions and a wonderful drive from Karyes through fir, cedar, and pine trees, we saw the village in the distance.
It was late afternoon, almost dusk, when we saw the sign that led us to Rouga, but we felt that we were leaving the center of the village.
We stopped in the middle of nowhere in the forest at a crossroads with a new sign and tried to get our bearings to reach “Rouga of Vamvakou.”
As if sent by God, Panagiotis appeared, knowing that we would arrive late, and practically put us to bed.
We lit the fireplace and went out onto the small balcony to smell the mountain, nature, and fir trees mixed with the familiar “village jackal.”
Everything screamed village!
Absolute silence!!!
Only a cuckoo somewhere in the distance called lazily for its mate.
At the Guest House
The room was unique!
The “Marigo” www.rugaofvamvakou.gr/rooms/marigo/ was spacious with a double bed and two single sofa beds, offering what you might call quiet, simple luxury!
It was exactly how I would design my country house in the village…
Warm brown wooden floors, simple furniture, a fireplace that worked perfectly, and a classic old-fashioned wooden ceiling with beams and struts in shades of beige.
I walk around “Rouga” and see old traditional houses that have been converted into a guesthouse of exceptional architectural beauty, thanks to an exclusive donation from the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, as part of the “Revival of Vamvakou” initiative.
Each room is named after a woman from Vamvakou from the past.
Marigo, Vgena, Stamo, Tsevoula, Anni and Potoula are dressed in their finest and invite me into their space to experience authentic Greek hospitality in the countryside.
I woke up as if in a dream to the sound of two roosters squabbling over which one was telling the time correctly!
It was half past six!
The others, covered in warm blankets, were purring like happy cats.
The morning walk to “Rouga” makes up for it!
I feel the oxygen filling my lungs and watch the first rays of sunlight breaking through the fir trees onto the surrounding rooftops.
Morning walk
Most fireplaces are still smoking until everything is back in order.
The clouds have descended and their edges touch the fir and pine trees.
The photographic tour begins… Stone corners, roofs, old wooden doors, smoke, trees, alleys, cobblestone streets, all transport you to a unique natural setting, to a peaceful village representative of the unique mountainous Greek countryside.
I remember the old song as I walk through the narrow streets and smile happily…
I am here in “Rouga tis Vamvakous,” a neighborhood that has become our little corner, our little neighborhood, which will host us so that we can live the dream and experience the place.
The Greek breakfast of Rouga
I return because it’s time for breakfast, which is served in the downstairs hall with a terrace that overlooks the forest of fir trees opposite.
And wow!
The breakfast I would like to see in all guesthouses, all hotels, all rentals, is right in front of me.
Everything is local, with fresh bread and jams, local cheese, local sausages, and even smoked pastrami from neighboring Sparta, which smelled of orange blossoms!
The honey smells like Taygetos and the fried eggs had just been brought by the neighbor!
Soon, warm loukoumades, a traditional cheese pie, and stuffed cheese pies arrive, all with local cheese!
As you can imagine, there was a fight and Panagiotis was forced to get a second batch of loukoumades to satisfy the adults…
Angeliki and Panagiotis, who have left Athens for good and settled in Vamvakou, give Rouga the life it needs to make us happy, keeping the guesthouse in amazing condition down to the last detail and serving an award-winning breakfast!
Ultimately, Rouga in Vamvakou is one of the best and most unique guesthouses I have visited in recent years while exploring uncharted Greece!
So, we begin our tour in this small mountain village in Laconia with very few permanent residents.
Here, with the support of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, a small group of young people dreams of filling the village with life. They want to hear the school bell ring again and see the playground filled with children…
Walk in Vamvakou
We walk down the cobbled path to the village’s main street, passing old stone houses painted in bright traditional colors.
We arrive at the square with the church and the huge plane tree.
Everything is closed, as if we were in the middle of nowhere.
And suddenly, the Voureiko café-restaurant appears before us, the second venture of the village’s young people!
It is open, with a few young people preparing the evening’s meals, as they are expecting visitors in the village today.
Ultimately, the organization “Vamvakou Revival,” with the support of the Niarchos Foundation, has done some very serious work. Here in the village, the effort to revive it continues!
We are informed about a very large artistic event for young and old.
Many activities at the school, including games, cinema, and even a robotics workshop!
These initiatives aim to completely revitalize the village of Vamvakou.
They draw on the history, human capital, and natural wealth of the region, and are being implemented with the moral and financial support of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation (SNF).
Shelves with local products such as honey spoon sweets and walnuts adorn one side.
The simple bar and a few tables are on the other side of the room. Everything is neat and tidy!
Even though Christmas is approaching, the sun is still shining.
The warm weather is still holding out, so we can walk around the village in short sleeves.
A few tables are set up in front of the church under the plane tree.
We enjoy our Greek coffee in the tranquility of the square…
Coffee in the square
Next to us stands the magnificent three-aisled church of the village. It is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Saint Paraskevi, and Saint Charalambos, with its tall bell tower.
Another group arrives. The square suddenly comes to life…
Panagiotis Agaze and Angeliki arrive and begin to tell us about their dreams for the village…
They invite other young entrepreneurs to become active in the area.
Continuous events for children and adults are held with the support of the Foundation and the continuous work of “Vanvakou revival.”
The vision is evolving rapidly and an air of optimism, along with the scents of the forest, now blows through Vamvakou!
Walking on Mount Parnonas
And now it’s time to head to our next stop, Tsintzina, known today as Polydroso. Areti awaits us at the Koukounari tavern, famous throughout our region.
But first, take a short walk to the Oinountas River, which flows just before the village. There, we will enjoy the waters that will one day irrigate the visions of the few residents!
Of course, on the way to Polydroso, a stop at the refuge of mountain Parnonas is a must.
You will find it on your way, so take a short walk through the green forest roads of Mainalo.
Nature is in full swing and you cannot remain indifferent!
Vamvakou…
A stone’s throw from Athens!
In less than two and a half hours, you can discover a magical place, a lush green mountain and a rare sense of tranquility.
Parnonas is the mountain of the traveler, the hiker, the nature lover, the philosopher, the seeker of peace and, of course, the foodie!
Here you will find hundreds of destinations. Forest trails that lead to small churches, walks along riverbeds, waterfalls that make you want to dive in!
The villages are almost empty in winter, but in summer they are bustling with life!
Chestnut and walnut trees come to life sometime in October.
I believe that the best time to visit is during Easter or immediately after…
That’s when nature transforms and you’ll see it with new eyes…
Combine your trip with one of the events that take place almost every weekend and you’ll remember me…
Information about this rare gem of Parnonas!
Guesthouse – Rouga of Vamvakous
Tel. 2731 021 900
https://www.rugaofvamvakou.gr/
Vamvakou Revival
Tel. 2731 076 233
https://www.vamvakourevival.org/
Text and photos by GiorgioGrigor
