It is certain that a small piece of paradise fell there in the most remote northwestern part of Greece. That is where Mathraki, a small island, was created, “a Stairway to Paradise.”
And like all paradises on earth, it is well protected from civilization, rampant development, and mass tourism.
The place
Together with its two smaller siblings, Erekousa and Othonos, the Diapondia Islands, as they are called, guard our most remote northwestern borders, sending messages of beauty, simplicity, confidence, and tranquility to the few visitors, most of whom are just passing through because Paradise has very little accommodation but a lot of beauty.
It is the first stop, the favorite little port of the Italians, who come to us by boat and receive generous hospitality, beauty, nature, incredible sea, beaches, and of course a taste of the old forgotten Greece.
However, getting to paradise is a big adventure that takes many hours if you start from Athens, as well as enormous patience, luck, and organization…
Getting to Corfu by car is tricky with the little ferry “Alexandros” running three times a week, and that’s if the weather’s good…
The ferry can carry a maximum of four cars, and you have to arrive well before dawn to get in line, because if you arrive fifth, you’ll have to wait until the next time, if you’re lucky…
Of course, there is also the classic “Pegasus” caique from Agios Stefanos to Corfu, but it only carries people and goods and is the main source of daily necessities for the residents.
Mathraki island
This summer, my vacation was magical.
I was truly shipwrecked in this forgotten paradise northwest of Corfu, three fantastic hours away by the small ferry.
The boat takes you all along the northeast coast of Corfu, and you can sip your coffee and admire the beautiful scenery.
The first stop is Ereikoussa, and there you begin to suspect what you are going to see on the way to little Mathraki.
The excitement is at its peak as your island, your paradise, draws nearer and nearer, and from a blurry image in the depths of the sea, it reveals itself before you like a female apparition…
You stand on your toes, hug the oar, and gaze at a doll-like island.
You turn your eyes right and left and don’t know what to look at first.
A small bite, you can walk from one end to the other in two hours.
An endless sandy beach with greenery reaching down to the sea and a few tiles peeking out from among the pines, cypresses, and olive trees are the first images that remain forever in your mind like a Monet painting.
The port
You enter the small harbor and feel that the little boat will hit the rocks on either side.
You look around and immediately a calm breeze tells you that you have arrived in paradise!
Mathraki, the smallest of the three Diapondia islands, still maintains traditional Greek hospitality in a magical way.
Its few inhabitants are mainly fishermen or retirees, lovers of peace and quiet and philosophers of the calm life that prevails on the island.
There are three small taverns scattered around the island, mainly serving local dishes, fish, and meats.
The first is in the south, on the sandy beach, next to the small Corfu Paradise hotel. the second, Dolphins Restaurant, overlooks the small harbor, and the third, Levante Taverna, is something between an old grocery store and a tavern, perched on the small hill of the island above the harbor with a wonderful view.
Of course, the island also has its classic café, “Kafenio to Kentro,” tucked away in the center of the island in the village next to the Holy Temple of Agios Spyridona
Walking with Fanis
To enjoy these unique experiences, you need to be willing to walk through the island’s magical nature.
So take your local friend Fanis with you on your walk to drink your Greek coffee, chat, and hear stories about his life in America, the news from last winter, and clink your tsipouro glasses with the few other patrons.
The food on the island is excellent, mainly fish that is delivered daily by the boat of Spiros, who owns the tavern in the harbor.
Delicious fish rofoudakia, barbouni, magnificent sfyridas, red scorpionfish, sterile, cuttlefish, the occasional lobster, and magnificent sea bream and sea bass, all delicious and fresh!
I love fish and, of course, fishing, and I found myself in my element…
I was among simple, everyday people who embrace you with all their heart, welcome you onto their boat and into their kitchen, and teach you the secrets of fishing and cooking.
And so the dream became reality.
That’s where I made my two wonderful new friends, the always smiling Kostas and the “big” Fanis…
We often started our day together drinking Greek coffee in a briki, waiting for the sun to give us its first rays, and each time it rewarded us with a different painting.
Sometimes his light shone through the thick clouds, and other times he painted the morning sky bright red.
We sat comfortably in our armchairs with our coffees, as if waiting to see a different work of art every morning.
And when its glow grew stronger, we would start our morning fried eggs, from Fani’s chickens next door, with homemade bread, a little cheese, conversation, and a view of the calm blue sea with the golden playfulness of the sun king.
A month between waking up at dawn, with magical sunrises, to gather the nets or fishing lines together with Spiros. And then cooking and preparing the catch we brought in the basket.
Nicoleta, the young cook at the Dolphins Restaurant, prepared all the fish in a magical way.
Next to them, I helped and absorbed the knowledge of traditional kakavia.
Next to it was the red-cooked bouredeto, where wild scorpion fish swam in a sauce of freshly grated tomatoes.
Of course, I watched from close by as the classic Bianco simmered with salouvardo or stiera!
This was something that was never missing from the menu. Next door, Father Theoklitos, who had come from Mount Athos to serve the Virgin Mary, was cooking Agioritika Rofoudakia.
On the beach
And then what else but swimming…
Swimming, lots of swimming. I would dive into the crystal clear waters and forget to come out.
I would start my daily walk to the southern tip and soak up nature, the sea, the landscapes, the sun, the sky.
Played like a little kid with the golden sand. I built a real shipwreck shadow with reeds and branches that the sea had washed up.
Sitting for hours gazing at the blue sea and didn’t have the heart to leave.
Discovered small castles in the sand. Built by the few children who were running around naked on the large beach.
I collected washed-up shells mixed with wood and nets from the winter storms. And gathered anything unusual I found on the sand.
I placed my yellow deckchair on a small rock in the sea. I read the familiar summer magazines with their spy novels.
Listened to my favorite music for hours. Completely cut off from the lapping of the sea and the chirping of the birds.
But Mathraki needs to be explored on foot. It wants you to chat with the few locals, it demands that you go to the sardine festival. To drink retsina and listen to stories from those who have returned from America. Those who returned to their beloved island to live the quiet life of a retiree.
The walk on the island
You have to walk it, let it speak to you.
Let it take you to its western side to show you its wild beauty. Its small fishing shelters, its vibrant nature, and its magical sunset that disappears into the depths of the Ionian Sea.
I am writing these memories from what was perhaps the best vacation of my life.
I reminisce, I shiver, and my soul is calmed by the images that remain in my heart…
Yes… this is a vacation in Paradise!
I sincerely hope that you too will find your paradise. In one of the small, hidden magical places of our homeland.
Because Greece is full of them…
It is a paradise in its entirety!!!
Texts and photos by GiorgioGrigor
A photographic tour through the eyes of Kostas Mastoras, one of the few inhabitants of the island!
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Watch the video we made for you. Get a more complete view of this wonderful monument, still unknown to many.
And a tour from above…
